Here's a sample of what Colchester
Place has to offer:
(call for current availability)
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Little
Gem Magnolia |
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Loropetalum |
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Pyracantha |
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Camellia |
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Why
Espalier?
There are numerous espalier techniques to
employ from the very simple, free flowing natural and informal designs
to complicated formal patterns.
Most espalier are trained against a solid wall. The plant should be
planted 6 to 10 inches away from the wall to allow adequate room for the
roots to grow, air circulation and pest control.
Any number of materials can be used as a support. If the wall is
constructed of suitable material, the plant can be trained directly on
the wall.
There are several hardware items which will be necessary. For masonry
walls, u-bolts, eye bolts, and eye screws are helpful. They can be
anchored by using expandable lead shields, or plastic plugs in the
mortar joints. For wooden walls use a 2½-inch floor flange with a
6-inch galvanized nipple threaded over the end of the nipple and fasten
with a wire roof clip. On the opposite end, attach a 3-inch turnbuckle
so the tautness of the wire can be adjusted. There are several ways to
begin an espalier. Many nurserymen already have plants in a container
with a trellis. These will be about 3 to 4 feet tall in a 3-gallon
container. This is the easiest way since they have already been started.
All the home gardener has to do is transplant.
If you start with an un-pruned plant, be sure to plant it far enough
away from the base of the wall, and prune sparingly until the plant
becomes established, then regular pruning and training can be
accomplished. Most of the major pruning should be done while the plant
is dormant, or if it is a flowering plant, be sure to prune in the
appropriate season. Remember that pruning does stimulate more growth.
The limbs are most flexible during the summer. One can bend and train
them to supports as the season progresses.
A plant which has been espaliered correctly is a real work of art.
Much patience, skill, and creativeness is necessary for a successful
project.
